Architecture of the Cocktail: The Mint Julep, by Bill Stott

 
What would the Kentucky Derby be without the Mint Julep? 

 
What would horseracing be without the iconic Kentucky Derby? And what would the Derby be without the Mint Julep (or those hats)? And to keep this train of thought going – what would the julep be without mint? The first two questions are hypothetical – but the last is known. It wouldn’t be a julep.  

The julep is a class of drinks, much like the cobbler, the martini, or the sour. It consists of a spirit, sugar, water and mint. It doesn’t have to have ice – but it must have mint. It was created sometime in the late 1700s in the American South – most likely Virginia – as a medicine to calm the stomach. As ice became commercially available in the warmer seasons, the julep evolved into the perfect drink during those hot, muggy southern summers. And it was especially popular in hotels and men’s clubs where those behind the bar became famous for their ability to cool down a hot and weary traveler, or to refresh a wealthy landowner after a long day of making sure his slaves were working hard enough. 

The first juleps were likely made with rum, as this was the spirit of the Revolution, but as the drink moved inland, it encountered whiskey – the spirit of American expansionism. The land west of the Appalachian Mountains was fertile and perfect for growing American corn, but grain was expensive to transport, with no easy route east to the coast over land. The solution for all that surplus corn was to convert it to alcohol. Easier to transport and shelf stable, the powerful spirit took off, and commercial distilleries began popping up all over Kentucky and Tennessee. 

But what of the lowly spearmint plant? Mint has been used medicinally for as long as we have had recorded history – and it is likely that the mint we have now has no relation to the wild mint that began to be cultivated thousands of years ago. Ancient Greek physicians added it to water and wine to help with digestion and stomach ailments. It is even mentioned in the bible as a valuable commodity used for trade and tithe. 

Woe unto you, scribes and Pharisees, hypocrites! for ye pay tithe of mint and anise and cummin, and have omitted the weightier matters of the law, judgment, mercy, and faith: these ought ye to have done, and not to leave the other undone. 

Matthew 23:23 

Spearmint is still used today for stomach and digestive ailments, including gas, indigestion, nausea, diarrhea, and even irritable bowel syndrome.  But it has a special place in the world of alcoholic beverages. It has a bright and fresh presence, both to the nose and on the taste buds, in many cocktails and can complement and reign in stronger flavors and harsh spirits (like whiskey in the 1800s). So, while you are drinking a mint julep and watching the Kentucky Derby, you can feel good about the fact that you are taking your medicine at the same time.  

So, before the big race – grab some ingredients and make yourself a julep. Its good good you! 

The Mint Julep 
 
2-1/2oz Woodford Reserve Bourbon 
1/2oz simple syrup 
4-5 mint leaves 
Mint sprig for garnish 
 
Add mint leaves and simple syrup (or 2 sugar cubes) to a silver plated julep cup and muddle together. You want to break the surface of the mint leaves to release the oils, but not tear them apart. If you are too aggressive it will release a bitter taste from the mint. Add crushed ice (needs to be crushed ice, not cracked or shaved ice) to the cup and add the bourbon. Stir until the cup frosts over. Add ice to create a dome and add a mint sprig for garnish. Serve – but be careful to only hold the cup by the base or rim, to keep fingerprints off the frosted exterior. 

The Prescription Julep 
 
2oz VO or VSOP cognac 
1/2oz rye whiskey 
1/2oz ultrafine sugar 
1/2oz water 
5-6 mint leaves (no stems) 
Crushed ice 
Mint sprig garnish 
Berries in season garnish 
Santa Cruz rum float 
 
Add water and sugar and stir in a Collins or Julep glass until dissolved. Add mint leaves and muddle lightly. You want to break the oil sacks on the surface of the mint leaves, but not release the bitter chlorophyll from the interior. Add crushed ice to the top of the glass. Add the cognac and rye and stir until the glass frosts over. Add more ice to create a dome, insert mint sprig into the ice and top with fruit. Float an aged Santa Cruz rum over the top. Insert a straw and serve. 

A glass with a drink in it

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The Aperitivo Julep 
A low-alcohol julep 

2oz dry vermouth 
3/4oz Amaro Ciociaro (or Amaro Ramazzotti with a dash of quality orange bitters) 
1tsp Pêche de Vigne peach Liqueur 
Mint sprig garish 

 
Add everything to a julep glass and fill halfway with crushed or pebble ice. Stir until the outside of the cup starts to frost over, then fill with ice. Stir again to mix and top off with an ice dome. Add a short straw (so your nose gets right down into that mint) and mint sprig garnish and serve. Note: only touch the rim or base of the julep cup so you don’t leave fingerprints in the frost. 

Cheers! 

Bill 

AotCB-036 

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